Join us and Courtier Wines for a tasting of four great wines from Meursault for only $55.
Meursault is the largest village in the Cote de Beaune, with a history dating back to Roman times. Its wines have historically been rich and savory with nutty, honeyed hints and buttery, vanilla spice from the oak. However today, when so much is bottled by the growers themselves, and the fashion for individual cuvees from single vineyards has its strongest expression here in Meursault, there are many more interpretations of the appellation than previously. Most obviously, there is a noted divide between the mineral wines from such hillside vineyards and the fleshier wines from the valley floor. Even though it is considerably larger than its southerly neighbors Chassagne and Puligny, Meursault contains no grand crus. Its three best premier crus, however produce some of the region’s greatest whites – full, round and powerful, that can age very well.
Joseph Voillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Cras 2010
Joseph Voillot’s first plot of vines was purchased in 1870. Since then, five generations of the family in Volnay have produced wines in Beaune, Pommard, Volnay and Meursault. In 1995, Jean-Pierre Charlot took over the reins from his father-in-law. The ten hectare estate had a reputation for good, long-aging wines that sometimes needed years to mature. Jean-Pierre brought an updated approach, as befits someone who, at Beaune’s Lycee Viticole, taught enology to many of today’s star producers. Stylistically, the wines have a silkiness that can make them immediately appealing, but also have everything they need for many years of maturing.
Voillot’s premier cru Meursault Les Cras offers an appealingly fresh and elegant nose, with notes of fresh citrus and acacia blossom that the detailed and energetic flavors. Great cut, delineation and intensity on the finish that delivers excellent persistence and is impeccably well-balanced.
Ballot-Millot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrieres 2011
In 2001, a motivated young vigneron, Charles Ballot took over from his father. Like many current generation winemakers in Burgundy, he wanted to raise the bar and leave a mark for his family’sdomaine. The domaine already had a good reputation, and has been around quite a long time, as the family started to amass vineyards in Meursault at the end of the 17th century, including the famedpremier crus Perrieres, Charmes, Genevrieres and Poruzots. Although there are several red wines in their portfolio, the emphasis remains on the whites. In style they typify balance, poise and minerality, avoiding the heaviness of lesser Meursaults. Dedicated work in the vineyards helps the wines express their terroir, and strict pruning ensures low yields, resulting in well concentrated wines.
Their version of the famed premier cru Les Perrieres expresses a restrained but elegant nose with notes of citrus, white flower, green apple and a hint of mineral reduction. There is good verve and excellent intensity to the middle weight and beautifully well-delineated flavors that add lift to the balanced and lingering finish. The acidity and mid-palate concentration should allow this wine to age effortlessly for 15+ years.
Joseph Drouhin Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrieres 2012
Originally from the Yonne department, Joseph Drouhin founded the negociant company which bears his name in 1880. His son Maurice took over in 1918, buying the first vineyards including the famous Beaune Clos des Mouches – it took him a while to put this together, since he had to buy the plots piecemeal from many different growers. This domaine is now run by Joseph’s grandchildren, and consists of 73 hectares spread throughout the region. All of their vineyards are farmed biodynamically, lending to the house signature of crafting elegant, refined and complex wines.
Meursault Perrieres from Joseph Drouhin is an outstanding wine, with a deep and classic bouquet of apple, iodine, hazelnuts and chalky minerality. On the palate, the wine is crisp and very minerally, with a rock solid core, excellent focus and balance and a very pure, laser-like finish. A stunning example that will only need a handful of years in the cellar to start drinking at its peak.
Dominique Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Poruzots 2010
Since the 2008 vintage, Dominique Lafon has been making a few wines under his own label, separate from the family domaine, Comtes Lafon. Though this new company has the official status of a negociant, almost all of the wines are in fact domaine bottlings from vineyards which Dominique either owns or has the contract to farm. The wines are now vinified, matured and bottled in cellars in Meursault, formerly belonging to Domaine Rene Manuel.
His rendition of Meursault Poruzots is a very fine wine, with pure aromas of apple, pear, and a beautifully complex base of minerality and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and very elegant – a reserved personality, with bright acids, excellent focus and a very long finish. A beautiful wine.